Author Topic: Shaving with a straight razor  (Read 6851 times)

Snowdog

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Shaving with a straight razor
« on: August 29, 2005, 11:48:04 AM »
I got a call from my father last weekend (haven't spoken with him in length for years) and got to catch up on much of what's been going on at the farm.  During the conversation, I find out he's gone back to shaving with a straight razor.  I remember him shaving with a razor while I was growing up, but I understand he switched to a Norelco in the 90's.  

Now hearing this came as an interesting time, as I had considered switching from my regular Bic Sensitive skin (single blade and cheap) disposables that gives me a decent shave to a traditional razor, at least to try (and more importantly, learn to do).  Ive sometimes wondered what most people would do if they no longer were able to conveniently purchase disposables, or charge their electric shavers.  After all, how many folks know how to shave like our fathers or grandfathers once did?

He told me shaving with a straight razor certainly isn't for everyone and usually people just starting up these days become frustrated after the first week and go back to their former electric shavers and disposable as theyve grown accustomed to the convenience they offer.
He did say that if I do plan to go that route, to opt for a high carbon Soligen steel blade, as opposed to a stainless blade that might be harder to sharpen.  He also advised I buy the best razor I could afford since its something Ill likely be using for years, decades even.


So, not wasting any time but not wanting to waste much money either, I purchased the kit that can be seen on the following link for $75.  It includes a straight razor with Soligen blade, strop and strop paste.  
http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=JEPK

If I find that shaving with a straight razor suits me, I'll probably buy a fancier blade eventually.  I just don't like the idea of dumping money into something that might not take.
Also, I was told that I don't need the soap, brush or bowl as good ol dad offered (insisted, really) to send some of the custom soap he's been using, along with a brush and wood bowl set someone once gave him as a gift that he's never taken out of the box.

So, what are some tips that any here have themselves found particularly helpful, especially for someone who has never used anything other than cheap disposables?   I was told to start slow and first only start with the side of the face, such as the sideburns, finishing the rest with my familiar Bics.  As I become more comfortable, I can use the blade more extensively, until using it for the entire shave.  
I have a mustache that's been there for 10 years and I don't plan on changing that any time soon, but hear the chin area can be tricky and I shaved my goatee a few months ago and cant grow it back due to my new job .  If anyone has any tips, hints or stories of their own razor-shave beginnings, please contribute!  

Thanks in advance.

Matthew Carberry

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2005, 12:36:52 PM »
I have been looking for a strop for a while (not very hard).  When I can get it to keep an edge my razor does shave closer than my Mach 3.  had it 4 years or so now.

I'm gonna check out that site.
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K Frame

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2005, 12:48:20 PM »
Drink your morning coffee AFTER you've shaved. A good case of the jitters makes for a nice case of divots. Smiley
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Paddy

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #3 on: August 29, 2005, 12:51:41 PM »
Mike beat me to it.   A straightrazor will give you a close shave, but it works better on young fleshy guys like carebear.   Us older guys with turkeynecks are better off sticking with electric razors.

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #4 on: August 29, 2005, 01:56:14 PM »
I'm going to start using a straight razor soon. I use a Mach3 and I've been wanting to start with a straight but I haven't made the switch yet.

grampster

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #5 on: August 29, 2005, 02:13:53 PM »
Swmbo volunteered to shave me using a straight razor, but I totally did not like the way she was looking at me when she mentioned it.
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jefnvk

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #6 on: August 29, 2005, 02:17:30 PM »
Quote
Ive sometimes wondered what most people would do if they no longer were able to conveniently purchase disposables, or charge their electric shavers.
Go without, I suspect.

I find shaving to be a pain, only to be done once in a while or when going somewhere a suit is required.

But, I wouldn't mind learning a straight razor.
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Azrael256

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #7 on: August 29, 2005, 02:51:28 PM »
I'll relate my experience. Smiley

I learned to shave with a straight razor at a mountain men rendezvous.  A friend has been doing the living history thing for some time, and he took me to one of their events.  One of the old-timers was giving a demonstration.  I took up straight razors shortly thereafter.

First off, toss the strop paste.  It's not that big of a help.  Next, take that mug and brush from your dad.  I use Williams shaving soap, and I think it provides the best lubrication.  YMMV on that one, but canned foams and gels will not cut it (no pun intended) with a straight razor.  The idea is to have something that will break the surface tension on the hair and allow the water to soften it up.  Foam just won't do.  Dry shaving is something akin to sanding your face with dragon skin, and plain water won't stick to your skin or penetrate the hair, so it's not much of an improvement.

Strop the blade every time, first with a canvas strop, followed by a leather strop.  The one you ordered looks fine for now, but you'll probably want a canvas side at some point.  Always roll the razor on its back at the end of each stroke.  Do NOT pick it up off the strop and whip it with your wrist.  You will put a roll in the edge, which will take your face right off, and you'll dice up the strop.  At all times, the rib along the back of the blade should be in contact with the strop just like the edge.  More on that later.  There are varying schools of thought on stropping.  I like to do it ~10 times for each side.  The idea is not to sharpen the blade, but to line up the microscopic serrations in the edge, thus giving you a smoother shave with less burn.  You'll figure out just how you like it with some practice.

Then, say a quick prayer, soap up, and start shaving.  You hold the razor like you've seen it in the movies, but you don't shave like they do.  What you heard about short, easy strokes is exactly right.  Until you get the hang of it, your strokes shouldn't be longer than 1/8".  When I do it, my strokes are only maybe 1/4", and I'm getting good at it.  Start by shaving the sideburns on your weak side.  It's the easiest place to get to with your strong hand, and it's a relatively flat surface.  As you move on to other areas, you'll need to learn to stretch the skin flat to get a better shave.  You'll develop that over time.  In my experience, you don't need to pay too much attention to the angle of the blade.  It should be shallower than 45 degrees to the face, but not too shallow, or you'll pull the hair.  Usually, your brain just *does it* with the blade angle.  I suspect it's something inherent to the design of the razor.  You do need to pay attention to how you move the blade.  Perpendicular to the edge at all times.  No angle, no motion down the length of the blade.  Nice and easy, straight up and down.  Contrary to popular comedic belief, your life insurance is not likely to pay out because you shave with a straight razor.  It is easy to cut yourself, but it is extremely difficult to penetrate more than the first layers of skin.  A razor cannot slice deeply without significant force applied to it because the whole point is to minimize serrations in the edge.  You will also involuntarily jump if you cut yourself, and your brain will make you pull the edge away from your face.

As you shave, you will need to clean the edge.  Running water is the best way to go.  A wet washcloth will work if you're careful, but water will keep you from accidentally dulling the edge.  Do keep a washcloth handy, and wipe your face every half inch of shaving.  Do keep in mind that you will remove more hide than hair the first few times.  It isn't all that painful when you start, but it will wake you up when you splash on aftershave.

When you're done, rinse off the razor, close it up, and leave it for at least 48 hours.  It needs to rest or the edge will fail.  People who shave daily will usually have two or more razors for this reason.  You'll also need a honing stone at some point.  There's an Austrian manufacturer that makes them, but I forget the name.  It looks like a big ceramic tile.  You wet it down with water, lay the blade flat on its side (the aforementioned rib at the back of the blade is the angle guide for sharpening!), and stroke it across the stone 6-8 times on each side.  Do not alternate.  Do this when the seasons change...  actually, do it less frequently than that unless you shave frequently.  More than 4 times per year is oversharpening.  

Always use bay rum for an aftershave.  That's not advice, it is one of the commandments of straight razor shaving.  Nothing else will do.

Best of luck to you, and do let us know how it goes.

K Frame

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #8 on: August 29, 2005, 04:08:30 PM »
Dang, nice primer Azrael.

For some years I shaved with a straight razor that used, of all things, replacable blades. After I couldn't get the blades anymore, I went back to a Gilette Atra.

I like Surrey Glycerine shaving soap the best. It cuts surface friction down incredibly, and leaves a wonderfully smooth feeling on your face. I use a Quattro or a Mach 3 Turbo (still waiting for someone to bring out the Decatho, 10 blades are best of all!), but have stuck with the shaving soap and brush. I also shave in the shower.
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Standing Wolf

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #9 on: August 29, 2005, 04:11:51 PM »
Don't everever!let your ex-wife "borrow" your straight razor to open a package. Trust me on this, please.
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SkunkApe

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #10 on: August 29, 2005, 05:41:27 PM »
I'm thinking of taking up the straight razor, too.  I'm already rubbing two sticks together everytime I light a cigarette.  Once I master the razor,  I'm going to make all my own clothes out of burlap.

SMLE

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #11 on: August 29, 2005, 06:30:44 PM »
Azrael got most of it covered. Particularly the part about rolling the blade over the BACK at the end of each stroke on the strop. also, the best stuff for the strop is some really fine polishing rouge.  I have a friend who makes his living sharpining professional shears and razors and that is what he uses. For wetting the stone, just put a little shaving lather on it. And I soundly second the motion to accept the brush & soap offer from your Dad. Nothing works better than a good soap lather when using a straight razor. Also, use the hardest, finest Arkansas stone you cna find. I'll ask my friend where he gets his, it's like a white piece of glass and will put a perfect edge on in just a few strokes. And this is important, always make sure the blade is DRY before you put it away! You don't want the edge rusting, that is very bad for your face.

Here is a good link; http://www.col-conk.com/

I use their Almond shave soap and "Almond Balm" aftershave.

As a final note, I have NEVER cut myself with a straight razor.

Hope this helps.

Azrael256

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #12 on: August 29, 2005, 07:27:23 PM »
Glad you guys liked it Smiley  It's always nice to be able to contribute.

You can probably find good polishing rouge at a leather store.  It's one of the basic pieces of kit for leatherworking.  I don't use it myself, but it's certainly not a bad idea.  Anything to get that edge smoother will help.  The goop that comes in the tube just doesn't work into the strop properly, and I always make a royal mess with it.  YMMV with it, but I think it's junk.

SkunkApe, what you need is a punk.  You char the end of a bit of cotton rope, and then slide a piece of copper tubing over the rope.  You strike a spark against the char, which ignites, you light your smoke, and then draw the burning end into the tube to let it char for the next strike.  With a foot of rope, you can light approximately ten million cigarettes.

Also, try linen before you switch to burlap.  There's nothing in this world quite like a pair of ironed linen undies, and if anybody comes up with something that compares, we should kill him quickly.

Snowdog

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #13 on: August 30, 2005, 12:12:25 AM »
Lots of great advice here, thanks folks.  I was really expecting a negative response from people who might try to dissuade me from going straight razor, as they wouldn't have seen the point.   It's something I've been tossing around in my head for a while and this seems the best time as ever to try.

That post of yours was great, Azrael.  The blade-to-strop angle using the back of blade as a guide and "rolling" action to switch sides while sharpening is gold... thanks a bunch.  This is exactly the kind of advice I was hoping for when I posted.
I was thinking the angle for sharpening was far steeper than what you described and I probably would've ruined the blade. Shocked

And thanks for the info and the link, Fianna Faíl...  seems like a good place to get started.

Snowdog

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #14 on: August 30, 2005, 01:49:00 AM »
Ok, here's another question I'd better ask:  How exactly do you dry out the brush after use?  I know from what I was told that the brush I'll be receiving would be of badger hair, which seems to be common.  Is this somehow more resistant to mildew?  I'm thinking I might use a paper towel to dry the brush if needed, but I don't want to prematurely wear the brush by doing this, either.

What's the standard practice for drying the brush after use?  I'm also curious if I should apply a thin layer of mineral oil to the razor's dry blade in between uses... but I don't know if that's needed or not.  I typically run a dehumidifier in the summer whenever it feels a bit humid outside, so the humidity indoors is usually around 40-45 percent.

SkunkApe

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #15 on: August 30, 2005, 02:59:37 AM »
Quote from: Azrael256
SkunkApe, what you need is a punk.  You char the end of a bit of cotton rope, and then slide a piece of copper tubing over the rope.  You strike a spark against the char, which ignites, you light your smoke, and then draw the burning end into the tube to let it char for the next strike.  With a foot of rope, you can light approximately ten million cigarettes.

Also, try linen before you switch to burlap.  There's nothing in this world quite like a pair of ironed linen undies, and if anybody comes up with something that compares, we should kill him quickly.
Heh - I'll have to look into that.

Stickjockey

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #16 on: August 30, 2005, 04:34:29 AM »
Quote
Always use bay rum for an aftershave.  That's not advice, it is one of the commandments of straight razor shaving.  Nothing else will do.
Is this a brand, or are we talking about using an adult beverage as an aftershave? My wife would kill me if she caught me using the Captain Morgan's on my face.

Quote
There's nothing in this world quite like a pair of ironed linen undies, and if anybody comes up with something that compares, we should kill him quickly.
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mtnbkr

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #17 on: August 30, 2005, 05:58:22 AM »
Col. Conk soap is great.  I used it back when I used mug/brush to shave.  I like the Almond scented version.  

Chris

K Frame

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #18 on: August 30, 2005, 07:10:51 AM »
"I used it back when I used mug/brush to shave."

And now you just use a woman's razor.

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mtnbkr

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #19 on: August 30, 2005, 08:24:18 AM »
No, these days I'm using that battery powered thing that the Mach 3 morphed into.  It's ok, but the head has too much rotation for me to effectively keep the blade against my face well.

Chris

Azrael256

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #20 on: August 30, 2005, 09:54:20 AM »
Quote
are we talking about using an adult beverage as an aftershave
It's not exactly an adult beverage.  I mean, I wouldn't drink the stuff.  It's basically rum and bay leaves.  You let it steep for a month or two, and then you strain it.  It is the very definition of manly.  Regular aftershave contains plenty of alcohol, although denatured, and you use the rum for the same reason.

As for the brush, just rinse it out, and never leave it in the mug with the soap.  If the bristles dry into the soap, they'll pull right out when you go to use it again.  I rinse mine out and stand it on its end on the counter.  Badger hair gives a better lather and is a softer hair than horse hair, but it isn't more resistant to mildew.  You really shouldn't have any problem with mildew unless you happen to live outdoors in a swamp.  My brush is always dry every morning, and I share a dorm bathroom with three other people.

As for oiling the razor...  I dunno.  Something tells me its not a good idea.  It might help keep the rust down, but I think it would interfere with shaving.  I would oil the hinge a little bit now and then (I use CLP for that), but wiping the blade dry after each use has always kept mine from rusting.  Stropping is going to polish off any oxidation that may have formed on the edge before you shave, so you really just need to dry the blade so that it's not soaking wet after you use it.

Snowdog

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #21 on: August 30, 2005, 11:56:05 AM »
Azrael, you've been a big help... thanks!

Silver Bullet

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #22 on: August 30, 2005, 12:51:30 PM »
And for $75, make sure you don't store one in your carry-on travel bag.

I've already lost my favorite pocket knife and handiest screwdriver to airport security.

SMLE

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #23 on: August 31, 2005, 05:50:17 AM »
Quote from: Snowdog
Ok, here's another question I'd better ask:  How exactly do you dry out the brush after use?  I know from what I was told that the brush I'll be receiving would be of badger hair, which seems to be common.  Is this somehow more resistant to mildew?  I'm thinking I might use a paper towel to dry the brush if needed, but I don't want to prematurely wear the brush by doing this, either.

What's the standard practice for drying the brush after use?  I'm also curious if I should apply a thin layer of mineral oil to the razor's dry blade in between uses... but I don't know if that's needed or not.  I typically run a dehumidifier in the summer whenever it feels a bit humid outside, so the humidity indoors is usually around 40-45 percent.
I have a little plastic stand that holds the brush by the handle, bristles down. I just shake the excess water out and hang it up. I got the stand from Col. Conk.

K Frame

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Shaving with a straight razor
« Reply #24 on: August 31, 2005, 07:29:17 AM »
Chris,

You've stopped using the Quattro? Wow. You were so heped up on it just a few weeks ago.

I'm still using mine, and yes, it's a LADIES Quattro! Give it a try, fellows, the shave you'll get is incredibly close.

As for the razor blades, you know, I've kept my razor in the shower, year round, for years, and have never seen the blades rust once.
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