For those with an 04-08 Ford F150 needing front brake rotors

[Brad Johnson]

I mentioned this kit on a recent thread but wanted to post it as a unique thread just in case those in need didn't catch it.

If you have an 04-08 Ford F150 with the factory crummy pulse-prone front rotors, you have a new friend.  The OEM front rotors are not only thin and prone to warping, they are also an integrated part of the hub assembly which runs about $250.  Plus tax.  Per side.  Then you still have the problem with the factory rotors quickly degrading into the p-p-p-pulsing nightmare that most recent F150 owners know all too well.  At almost $300 per assembly after throwing in tax and the cost of gas to go get them, replacement is a pricey affair.

Not any more.

A company called Centric (an OEM supplier) makes a 2-piece hub/rotor conversion.  It uses a seperate center hub that, unlike the OEM sealed units, features bearings that are both replaceable and larger than the factory pieces.  It also allows the use of the much cheaper 4wd F150 replacement rotors.

Hub/Rotor kit - requires one per side
Part number 120.65128
Available through several sources.  Best price I could find as of today is, of all places, Amazon.  Price is $148 and you even get free shipping.

Brake pads - street driven applications with infrequent heavy loads
Part number 106.10110
Appx $38 per side

Replacement is driveway simple.  The only special tools you might not have are a monster 36mm socket for the spindle nut and a torque wrench that will handle the 295 lb/ft installation spec (yes, 2-9-5 lb/ft!!).

Brad

[Jamisjockey]

Oh...my....
considering I routinely tow over 6,000# of boat and trailer, my brakes are taking a beating. 
Do they have a web site?

[Brad Johnson]

www.centricparts.com

They don't sell direct but you can get Centric parts through a number of online suppliers including RockAuto.  Amazon is still the cheapest though.

They have a good tech support line.  You might give them a ring and see what kind of pads they recommend for more severe-duty applications like towing a boat.

Brad

[Tallpine]

The only special tools you might not have are a monster 36mm socket for the spindle nut and a torque wrench that will handle the 295 lb/ft installation spec (yes, 2-9-5 lb/ft!!).

For a spindle nut  

Doesn't that put a hell of a load on the bearings 

Geeze - I've packed a lot of wheel bearings and never did much more than finger tight plus maybe a half turn or so and line of the cotter key hole.

[Brad Johnson]

I said the same thing.  No telling how many bearings I've packed and reinstalled by tightening the spindle nut until there was resistance, then backing off a quarter turn and keying it.  I had a hard time believing it, too, but I called Centric tech support and verified it.  295 lb/ft.  From what I understand that's also the spec for OEM replacement hubs.

Oh, the guy at Centric also said that a lot of people without that much torque wrench will fall prey to the temptation of using an air wrench.  He was adamant about it being an almost 100% guaranteed way to well and truly trash the bearings... along with the spindle.

Brad

[Fitz]

Wish i would have known about this kit prior to replacing the rotors on my F150. I no longer have the truck, but this will be one of the first mods i do if i buy another, which i may

[coppertales]

I, too, have replaced alot of wheel bearings.  Finger tight on ball bearings and a slight preload on roller bearings.  Are you sure they didn't mean 295 inch pounds?  Do you realize how tight 295 foot pounds is?  You would need a 3/4 or larger torque wrench to reach that figure....chris3

[Tallpine]

Do you realize how tight 295 foot pounds is?

It's a lot of pounding with your foot 

[seeker_two]

Thanks for the info....next time my '08 F150 needs brake work, I'm specifically asking my mechanic to install these....

[Brad Johnson]

I, too, have replaced alot of wheel bearings.  Finger tight on ball bearings and a slight preload on roller bearings.  Are you sure they didn't mean 295 inch pounds?  Do you realize how tight 295 foot pounds is?

Yes, I do.   No, I didn't misunderstand them.

As I said to Tallpine, I had the same questions.  That's why I called Centric and verified it ... 295 lb/ft.

IMPORTANT NOTE*!!  I just discovered the spindle nuts are torque-to-yield, meaning you DO NOT reuse them.  From what I can find the Centric kit includes a new spindle nut.  If it doesn't, they are readily available and run $12-$15 each.

Also, RockAuto.com has the kits in stock for $150, shipped.

The rotors shipped with the kit are the standard-line CTek rotors.  If you want to upgrade a bit you can order the hub only ($86, p/n 124.65902) and go with something like the Raybestos AdvanceTech premium rotors ($77, p/n 680180).  Better metallurgy, cleaner casting, more precise finish-out and final balance, etc.  RockAuto.com's shipping estimator shows a total of $29 for ground shipping, making it $192 per side if you want to do the conversion with the upgraded rotors.

Brad

[Nick1911]

The front spindle nuts on my Mustang were in the 250 ft/lb range.

I had to literally stand on the torque wrench.

[Tallpine]

The front spindle nuts on my Mustang were in the 250 ft/lb range.

I had to literally stand on the torque wrench.

That's why they call it foot/pounds 

[Magic8]

Thanks Brad!

For the info I just bought these and plan on putting them on Sunday, I was looking on the Internet to find just how tight that nut had to be? It is surprising to me that centric did not provide this info in the box with the hubs.

[French G.]

Follow the torque specs, I killed a car front bearing early because I did not get one tight enough.

[Boomhauer]

295 ft lbs is a 3/4 drive torque wrench.

[dogmush]

I have a 1/2 in beam wrench that goes to 300 ft/lbs, but for click types you are indeed likely into the 3/4" drive.

And for folks that haven't gotten into the newer hubs and suspensions most cars these days (and I know for a fact F150's and Mustangs don't because I've changed them) don't use either ball or tapered bearings, and you aren't setting any preload at all with the spindle nut any more.  They use sealed straight roller bearings. The outer race is press fit to the hub/brake rotor assembly and the inner race slides on the spindle.  The one time use locking spindle nuts hit the outside of the inner bearing race and push it into a machined surface on the inside, vertical part of the spindle.  So you are squeezing the inner bearing race with the nut. there's also not a cotter pin, or lock washer and castle nut anymore.  Just torque, and friction on the threads holding it on.  Hence the torque value and the "No Impact Wrench" rule.

295 Ft/lbs is the correct spec.

ETA: You can also run a 1/2 Torque wrench through a Torque Multiplier and get the 295 you need.

[Brad Johnson]

Wow, didn't realize it'd been five years since the swap so I guess an update is in order. The update is... nothing. No probs of any kind. No rotor pulsing, no bearing noise, no mechanical issues. Nada.

Brad

[dm1333]

I wonder if this applies to 2010's.  My brakes pulse.

[dogmush]

I wonder if this applies to 2010's.  My brakes pulse.

From a quick glance at the internet the 2010's went back to a separate hub/bearing assembly and rotor. So you can turn and/or replace just the rotor.