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Author Topic: Fermentation: Aerobic (Yeast)  (Read 17709 times)
charby
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« Reply #25 on: February 06, 2017, 03:53:50 PM »

I've had much better results when using Fermaid than the JD Carlson stuff.

Fermax  you mean?

I get yeast nutrient, hell I'm the plant nutrition/soil fertility guy by trade. So is yeast nutrient a new concept? I don't remember hearing about it when I was brewing in the early 2000s. I've noticed a lot of things equipment wise has changed.

-C
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« Reply #26 on: February 06, 2017, 04:25:35 PM »

Ammonium phosphate and food-grade urea.  But Premier Cuvee is such an aggressive yeast you can probably get by without it -- perhaps better, because it won't ferment so fast.

Don't worry about it this time.
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« Reply #27 on: February 06, 2017, 05:50:36 PM »

Fermax  you mean?

I get yeast nutrient, hell I'm the plant nutrition/soil fertility guy by trade. So is yeast nutrient a new concept? I don't remember hearing about it when I was brewing in the early 2000s. I've noticed a lot of things equipment wise has changed.

-C

https://morewinemaking.com/products/fermaid.html
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« Reply #28 on: February 06, 2017, 07:29:08 PM »


Thanks, I ordered some for when I start on beers.

I may make my own in the future, going to using food grade urea for a fall fertilizer on my lawn one I get my weeds down to an acceptable level.





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« Reply #29 on: February 06, 2017, 07:36:11 PM »

So yeast is pitched and now waiting for the magic to happen

5 gallons of apple juice
5 containers of frozen concentrate
SG at 60F is 1.060 

Fermenter is in a place with a constant 65F degrees.
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« Reply #30 on: February 09, 2017, 06:56:28 AM »

Just checked on it, getting a big bubble every second. Last night it was barely pushing up the airlock.
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« Reply #31 on: February 20, 2017, 07:02:12 PM »

Kegged it.

Sg was 1.005 so dry as the Sahara. Back sweetened it with 3# of brown sugar. Yeast should die when CO2 hits 25 psi in the keg from conditioning.
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« Reply #32 on: February 23, 2017, 11:35:04 PM »

Only just noticed this sticky. 

Got 5 gallons of Imperial Stout and 5 gallons of Cascadian Dark Ale in secondary fermenters right now.  First batches of homebrew in an easy 10 years.  Probably going to bottle this Sunday.  Might get another batch started while we bottle.
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« Reply #33 on: February 24, 2017, 09:00:37 PM »

I need to get more disciplined in my brewing.  Instead of brewing something totally different every time, I need to focus.  
I'm drinking a style called Dampfbier now that brewed on New Years Eve.  I didn't like it much at first, but I think I just started drinking it "green".  It's really coming around.  So I'll brew the same recipe again, but add the first hops at 60 minutes instead of 20 to make it more bitter, and use a more neutral German ale yeast (K-97) instead of wheat beer yeast (Wyeast 3333)

Yeah, I know I should only change one variable at a time.  cheesy
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« Reply #34 on: February 25, 2017, 07:49:23 AM »

Pulled a sample from the 2/5/2017 SMaSH before sticking in the 'fridge to cold crash. Very dry and very light in taste with moderate hop bitterness. Smells greener and more yeasty than it tastes. No offensive plastic-y off flavors, treating the water for chloramine might be the piece of the puzzle I was missing in previous brews!
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« Reply #35 on: April 21, 2017, 05:07:57 PM »

Dandelion wine is bubbling away, never brewed anything before, find out in six months if it is worth a crap.
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« Reply #36 on: May 16, 2017, 07:47:20 PM »

Two weeks ago I started an experiment: a half gallon of cheap Concord grape juice, 1/2 gallon of cheap Niagara (white) grape juice, 1 tsp of bread yeast, 1/2 tsp yeast nutrient.  That's it; no sugar.  I have wine yeast, but I wanted to try bread yeast to get a more "ale-like" character.  The refractometer said the juice was almost 16 Brix, so about 8.5% ABV is the target.  Something I can drink a pint or two without a buzz but probably not three.

After 10 days, the bubbling had almost stopped and the color started changing from an ugly mauve to a cloudy red wine color you could almost see through, and it had a generous 1/4" of sediment in the jug.  I racked it to another gallon jug and added 1/4 tsp Knox gelatin dissolved in 1/2 cup of hot water.  It started bubbling actively again and I thought I had screwed up, but a few hours later the bubbling stopped and the wine started to clear.

Today it is clear enough to read newsprint thru the jug.  I can't believe how well the gelatin worked; I hope there's enough suspended yeast left to carbonate it.  I plan to bottle it tomorrow night, in strong bottles with enough sugar to carbonate (about a teaspoon per 500 ml)

I'm excited by how fast this went. 
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« Reply #37 on: May 17, 2017, 05:14:57 AM »


Mostly a wine maker, as I mostly give out bottles as gifts rather than for personal consumption. Also it's much easier than beer. With wine, insane overkill sterilization procedures and good materials will always give you good to very good end results.

I'm planning on trying a batch of canned grape juice instead of the rather expensive bagged stuff. Half the cost, but theoretically better when just using welch grape juice.
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« Reply #38 on: May 17, 2017, 06:34:18 AM »

The white wine that I made with Aldi's white Niagara grape juice and lots of sugar turned out remarkably good.  A lot better than the red that I made with their Concord juice, a little sugar, and potassium carbonate to cut the acidity.

At bottling time the white was pretty harsh -- no specific fault, it just tasted bad.  After just a month in the bottles it has really turned around.  I will make it again; probably with Vintner's Harvest AW4 yeast next time to give it a more German-y character.

I think blending Concord and Niagara has potential (not necessarily the quick bread yeast wine that I'm about to bottle)
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« Reply #39 on: May 17, 2017, 06:26:01 PM »

Dandelion wine is good right now, drank a bottle over ice. Lotta alcohol.
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« Reply #40 on: June 15, 2017, 12:47:10 PM »

Kegged it.

Sg was 1.005 so dry as the Sahara. Back sweetened it with 3# of brown sugar. Yeast should die when CO2 hits 25 psi in the keg from conditioning.

Crashed the keg finally, guess the strain of yeast I got doesn't die at 25 psi. Blew foam, took out about 1/2 gallon, blew the pressure off the keg and hopefully it equalizes.

settled foam into cider tasted good, except too boozy and a little sweet for cider. Next time, different yeast and no back sweetening.

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« Reply #41 on: June 15, 2017, 01:46:36 PM »

The water here is *very* high in bicarbonate.  It's not really fit for brewing anything but stouts, and I'm not fond of stout.  I've been mixing it with reverse osmosis water from the machine at Walmart, using more and more tapwater as I learn to deal with the alkalinity.

I just read about "Sauergut" a few weeks ago.  Sour some unhopped beer with lactobacillus, and add that to the mash to acidify it.  I knew the Germans made sour beers, but I'm not interested in that.  It never occurred to me to use sour mash just to deal with hard water.  I'm going to try it.  It will take about 650 ml of sour mash to acidify 6 gallons of straight Rochester tapwater, assuming about 1.75 to 2% lactic acid.  Not sure if that's enough to mess up the flavor, but I'm going to try it in my next batch.  (then you replenish your Sauergut reactor with the new beer before you boil it and add the hop, so it's perpetual once you get it going)
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« Reply #42 on: July 17, 2017, 06:42:57 PM »

Did a gallon of barleywine yesterday from a 1 gal NB kit I had. It's burping pretty good today.

Threw together a "scraps ale" this evening from odds 'n ends I had around. 2.25 gallons of campden treated water, ~3 lbs of gold LME, 0.5 oz of Cascade at 60 min, 0.25 oz of Cascade at 15 min, 0.15 oz of Cascade at 5 min. Pitched 1 pint of US-05 slurry left over from a pale ale in February and 1 pint of US-05 slurry left over from the February 2-row/Cascade SMaSH, since I have no idea about the viability of those two slurries anymore. Since I discovered that my main problem in the past has been the chloramine in my water, I've been on a mission to see how sloppy and imprecise I can be (except for sanitation) and still get a reasonably decent beer.
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« Reply #43 on: July 19, 2017, 11:52:29 AM »

I brewed 4 gallons of witbier a week and a half ago.  It's about time to transfer it from the bucket to a carboy to finish.  This is my first time brewing a light-colored beer with Rochester tapwater without diluting with any reverse osmosis water.  I acidified it using 10ml of 88% lactic acid because I haven't made the sauergut yet.  And I had a bottle of lactic acid already, so it's a good proof of concept.

I hope it doesn't taste like sour milk when it's done.
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« Reply #44 on: July 19, 2017, 02:37:42 PM »

I transferred some kolsch from the fermenter to a Coney keg. Couple weeks to condition, then lager for 4 or more weeks.
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« Reply #45 on: July 23, 2017, 02:52:57 PM »

Started another batch.  "Scottish Ale" it says on the kit box.  "Easy" it says.  Cheapest kit they had in the store.   It's been quite a few months since I did my last batch, and I'm down to the last few bottles.
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« Reply #46 on: July 08, 2018, 05:29:46 PM »

Brewed a 5 gallon batch of Rye Wit session ale back in April. It sat in the primary until just this last Thursday, since I've had it with bottling. Picked up some kegging equipment, but it sat around for a while, life's been busy...
 
On Thursday, cleaned and sanitized a keg, and racked the Rye Wit into it and burst carbed at 30 PSI for 40 hours. Reduced the pressure to 12 PSI and pulled a sample... AWESOME!

BOTTLING SUCKS KEGGING LIFE FTW!
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« Reply #47 on: July 08, 2018, 06:11:38 PM »

Brewed a 5 gallon batch of Rye Wit session ale back in April. It sat in the primary until just this last Thursday, since I've had it with bottling. Picked up some kegging equipment, but it sat around for a while, life's been busy...
 
On Thursday, cleaned and sanitized a keg, and racked the Rye Wit into it and burst carbed at 30 PSI for 40 hours. Reduced the pressure to 12 PSI and pulled a sample... AWESOME!

BOTTLING SUCKS KEGGING LIFE FTW!

Bottling's not so bad if you use big bottles.  But then I drink big bottles...

I got some Voss Kveik yeast; it's a Norwegian farmhouse strain that you can ferment up to about 100F; it likes it hot.  I have trouble cooling my wort down below about 80.  I've brewed with it once, and the fermentation was so fast I think it was totally done and cleared in 3 days.  I transferred it to a carboy for a week and it's probably ready to bottle (or keg) now.  You really could go grain-to-glass in a week with this stuff.
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« Reply #48 on: July 20, 2018, 08:40:08 AM »

I've helped (more like watched) my most autistic friend do some sort of complicated decoction mashing, all the time he was talking about alpha and beta acids, and some other gobblygook...
He makes the best beer I've ever had (its a stout, very similar to Guinness, but better) , makes it consistent from batch to batch, and always has it on tap at his house.
It just looks too time consuming and complicated for me.
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« Reply #49 on: July 30, 2019, 04:27:38 AM »

Started a black currant wine last night.
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